Alexia Doussan may work in the front-of-house at Gris-Gris on Magazine Street, but she’s been an at-home chef for years, perfecting a king cake recipe since childhood.
When she was a kid, she and friends would make the Carnival treat. Then in 2020, the then-teen decided to try her hand at making her own after having no luck finding a Dong Phuong king cake.
It was the first time she’d make one without adult supervision. She was 19.
When she first started baking her classic king cakes, Doussan would turn out 10 or so a week for friends and family in her kitchen. Eventually she’d dabble in fillings — cream cheese for her father and cherry for her grandfather.
Fast forward five years, and Doussan and Gris-Gris co-worker Mady Price are now making dozens of king cakes to sell each Carnival season that have evolved from the simple cinnamon one she made at the very beginning stages of the COVID pandemic.
“Chef said we could use the kitchen and sell out of Go-Go, so we’re like, ‘Alright, let’s do this!’” Doussan recalled.
With the help of Price and other Gris-Gris members, curious about the operation, they have increased weekly production to meet preorders and have the case at Gris-Gris to Go-Go filled for customers throughout the week, with the bulk of the baking done Tuesday when the restaurant is closed.
Cherry king cakes seem more rare than other traditional flavors, so it was the selection I gravitated towards, despite my usual aversion to maraschino cherries.
The butter cream frosting was evenly spread, and the glittery sprinkles shimmered as the knife neared the cake for the first slice.
When the filling drips from the fluffy spiral of the king cake slice, it already feels like a blessing. And for this soft, chewy king cake, the cherry filling was a balance of tart and sweet, giving cherry pie vibes with Mardi Gras flair.
It was the kind of king cake that, in hindsight, I should’ve squirreled away a piece for me to have later before everyone else devoured it.
This year, Doussan’s family has enjoyed the Chantilly berry, Doussan’s take on the Chantilly cake from Whole Foods and Bywater Bakery.
Hopefully I get to try that one soon.
Where: Call 504-272-0241 to preorder a cake with filling and pick up at Gris-Gris to Go-Go, 1804 Magazine St.
Cost: $40 to $50